Silent Night Christmas Stocking

It seems a little strange to be writing Christmas stocking patterns in August, but the reality is that once the fall starts rolling, there is not a lot of time left for creative pursuits.

A few years ago, I made Skinny Christmas Stockings for my husband and I. I really like how they turned out - they're cute and simple looking...

And then I saw a picture online of a fireplace with crochet stockings in a couple different patterns in a variety of neutral colors, and I really liked the way that looked. So, I want to design a couple more patterns to go with my original Skinny Christmas Stockings, in case someone wanted to do something like that (or if I want to do it when I have kids someday...)

I have yarn in a soft country blue and a heathered charcoal gray sitting in my yarn trunk right now. I bought them for some Christmas gifts I thought I was going to make last Christmas, and never did. I'm trying to use up that yarn and make some pretty things before I buy more.  Creamy oat, charcoal, and country blue are beautiful colors together, and would make for a beautiful farmhouse Christmas.  I may not have a farmhouse, but I can imagine it would be delightful!

Supplies

• Size H or 5.00mm crochet hook
• I used about half a skein of Big Twists Value Solids yarn in medium denim, about 200 yards. 
• A length of ribbon for hanging your stocking
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• st - stitch
• ch - chain stitch
• sp - space
• ch1 space - chain 1 space
• slst - slip stitch
• hdc - half double crochet
• dc - double crochet
• fpdc - front post double crochet
• rsc - reverse single crochet (aka "crab stitch")
• sc2tog - single crochet 2 together
• sc6tog - single crochet 6 together
• ps - puff stitch

To make it larger, increase starting ring by multiples of 2. (Each starting hdc in the magic ring will be tripled by time you finish the toe). 

Starting at the toe... 
To begin: Make a magic ring, ch1

Round 1: 12 hdc in magic ring, slst to top of first hdc. 12 sts.

Round 2: ch1 (does not count as a stitch, here or elsewhere unless otherwise noted), 2 hdc in each st around, slst to top of first hdc. 24 sts

Round 3: ch1, 1 hdc in each st around, slst to top of first hdc. 24 sts

Round 4: ch1, *1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st,* repeat * * around, join with slst to top of first hdc. 36 sts.

Round 5: ch1, hdc in each st around, join with slst to top of first hdc. 36 sts.

Round 6 - 7: Repeat round 5. 36 sts. 

Begin foot...
Round 8: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc and ch1), dc in same stitch; *skip 2 sts; dc, ch1, dc in next st*; repeat * * around. Join with a slst to the 2nd ch in the ch3. You should end up with 12 "V's".

Round  9: slst to "ch1" space (it should be right next to where you joined the previous row), ch 3 (counts as 1st dc and ch1), dc in same st; in next ch1 space: ps, ch1, ps; *in next ch 1 space: dc, ch1, dc; in next ch1 space: ps, ch1 ps*; repeat * * around, ending with a ps set. Join with a slst to the 2nd ch in the ch3. You should have six normal V's and six ps V's. 

Round 10: slst to "ch1" space (it should be right next to where you joined the previous row), ch 3 (counts as 1st dc and ch1), dc in same stitch; *skip 2 sts; dc, ch1, dc in next st*; repeat * * around. Join with a slst to the 2nd ch in the ch3. You should end up with 12 "V's".

Round 11: slst to "ch1" space (it should be right next to where you joined the previous row); ps, ch1, ps in that 1st ch space; in next ch1 space: dc, ch1, dc; *in next ch1 space: ps, ch1, ps; in next ch1 space: dc, ch1, dc*; repeat * * around. Join with a slst to the ch1 space between the first two ps. You should have six normal V's and six ps V's. 

Round 12: slst to "ch1" space (it should be right next to where you joined the previous row), ch 3 (counts as 1st dc and ch1), dc in same stitch; *skip 2 sts; dc, ch1, dc in next st*; repeat * * around. Join with a slst to the 2nd ch in the ch3. You should end up with 12 "V's".

Rounds 13-15: repeat rows 9-11, respectively

Begin the heel...
"Round" (row) 16: slst to "ch1" space, ch1, 2 sc in same space; *2 sc in next ch1 space*; repeat 4 more times. 12 sc total. 

"Round" (row) 17: ch1, rotate project, sc in each sc across. 12 sc total.

"Round" (row) 18: ch1, rotate project, sc in each sc across, 12 sc total

"Round" (row) 19: ch1, rotate project, sc 2 tog across the previous row. 6 sc 2 tog total.

"Round" (row) 20: ch1, rotate project, sc 6 tog, ch1. 1 sc 6 tog total.

Rejoining with stocking body...
Round 21: working across the heel, slst to space just to the right of the sc6tog from the previous row, ch3, dc in same space; work 1 more dc, ch1, dc along heel; work next dc, ch1, dc in same ch1 space as was used for the starting row of the heel back in "round" 16; *in next ch1 space: dc, ch1, dc*; repreat * * in next 5 ch1 spaces; work next dc, ch1, dc in the same ch1 space as was used for the starting row of the heel; work 2 more dc, ch1, dc sets across the heel; join with slst to the 2nd chain in the ch3. You should end up with 12 V's again.

Round 22 - 37 : Repeat rounds 9-12, starting with a round 11 (just because of where you end up after the heel). 

Round 38: ch1 (does not count as sc), 3sc in ch1 space; *3sc in next ch1 space*; repeat * * around; join with slst to top of 1st sc. 36 sc total. 

Round 39: ch2 (does not count as dc), dc in each sc around, join with slst to top of 1st dc. 36 dc total. 

Round 40: ch2 (does not count as st), fpdc in same st as ch2, fpdc in each dc around; going with slst to top of first fpdc. 36 fpdc. 

Round 41: ch2 (does not count as st), fpdc in same st as ch2, fpdc in each fpdc around; going with slst to top of first fpdc. 36 fpdc. 

Round 42: Repeat round 41. 

Round 43: ch1, reverse sc (crab stitch) in each st around; join with slst to first reverse sc, cut thread, tie off, weave in ends. Attach a ribbon for hanging over your fireplace. Wait for Christmas and see what happens.

I love the way the puff stitches almost look like little hearts. The stitch pattern is very sweet and cozy. I have another pattern idea for this stitch... stay tuned! 

Enjoy!

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